Singing in the rain

The past four days has kept us on the move every day on a bus tour of mainland Greece , staying at a different hotel each night and travelling big distances. As the tour was bilingual - French & English - our tour guide Dimitra had to say everything twice, but it provided great aural practice for my French. Our bus driver was George...of course. It is the most popular male name in Greece. 

We stopped at the Corinth Canal and encountered a cranky coffee man who seemed to enjoy shouting at his customers.  First it was the turn of the poor woman from Hervey Bay. God alone knows what her crime was. Then up I trotted, feeling safe, paying for my coffee at 3.50 with a 5.00 euro note. But no, that was not good enough. He wanted me to produce 50 cents as he "didn't have the right change"! Then he only gave me back 1 euro. So I stood my ground. Further abuse followed and then Adrian rocked up with his palm open with coins and he snatched what he needed, noting we were together. Adrian said to him "be happy' and so he was sent packing with a mouthful as well. 

Corinth Canal linking the Ionian Sea to the Aegean Sea

Ancient theatre at Epidaurus

A highlight of the day was seeing the Theatre of Epidaurus, an open air amphitheatre dated 4th century BC. Unfortunately drizzly rain had started. As tourists wandered along the seats, clapping their hands to test the acoustics, Adrian urged me to sing a few bars from the gravel "stage". So I sang a bit of Ave Maria. I don't think people knew where the sound was coming from, but everyone listened and they applauded. Later when asking Adrian if he could hear me, the guy from Hervey Bay replied "well I could and I'm deaf'.

Then on to Mycenae, a significant archeaological site from the second millennium BC before stopping for the night at Olympia. 

Entrance to the city of Mycenae

The real "Wilson" - can you spot him?

Adrian enjoyed recreating the character "Wilson" from the US sitcom Home Improvement which our family enjoyed in the 1990s.

The ruins of Ancient Olympia were only unearthed in the latter part of the 19th century by German archaeologists, when Greeks took control once again of their land from the Persians. Winners were presented with their trophies in front of the Temple of Zeus. Each winner brought great honour to his region, community and family. 

Stadium at Ancient Olympia - no seats for the spectators!

Columns from the colonnades adjacent to the training grounds.

Temple of Zeus as it appears today

Corfu Town and beyond

Visited the old fortress in Corfu Town which provides great views over the city. Its history dates back to the mid-6th century AD, when the ancient city of Corfu was destroyed in barbarian incursions. The current form of the Old Fortress's fortifications is mostly owed to the defensive works done during the period of Venetian rule (1386-1797)

View of Corfu from the top of fortress

In the old fortress in Corfu Town

Church of St George in the old fortress

We visited the Church of St Spirodon, the mummified remains of whom are entombed in a silver casket. He is much venerated on Corfu as their patron saint and the Corfiots have great faith in his powers of intervention. We have noticed in the Greek Orthodox churches the ritual of kissing all the icons. I noticed one man kiss the casket of St Spirodon at least 4 times. Perhaps St Spirodon may have a lot to answer for in spreading COVID. 

 

Forgot to mention that when we returned the car rental in one piece, we were severely scolded for not producing the "paperwork". "It must remain in your car at all times" we were told. Adrian shrugged and told them he did not know where it was and more scolding followed. But he kept his cool...just. Apparently if the police pull you over,  you must show the "paperwork". In all the fracas...fortunately no imprisonment on this occasion...I left my beach shoes behind. But a detour in the taxi today allowed me to reclaim them for more use at rocky beaches.

Celebrating the safe return of the car with an ouzo on the famous Liston

A surprise around every corner

On our final full day on the island of Corfu and without a car, we decided to catch a ferry to the nearby island of Paxos. Both Paxos and its tiny neighbour, Antipaxos boast magically clear, light blue waters. We had originally planned to go on a tour, but it was booked out. Dodged a bullet there, as the boats were packed, with loud music playing and no chance for any independence. From the small town of Gaios on Paxos, you can catch a water taxi to Antipaxos which returns to collect you later in the day. The trip to Paxos was very fast on a hydrofoil – one hour (35 euro per person), which was our only option. The return trip was by slower boat – two and a half hours – at less than a third of the price. 

A colourful scene in the port of Gaios on Paxos

Clear blue waters of Voutoumi Beach on Antipaxos

Waiting for the water taxi

Our water taxi

Our final evening we dined at the Bougainvillea restaurant. Impeccable service, delicious food and wine (red house wine was excellent). After paying the bill we were presented with two glasses of cumquat liqueur, gratis, something that is often done in Greek restaurants. 

Bougainvillea restaurant

 

Ah!!!

 

Corfu Town (Kerkyra)

We are now at Corfu Airport awaiting a flight back to Athens after a wonderful 4 night stay in Kerkyra. So what have the Wandering Willies been up to since last we posted an entry. Stopped en route from Paleokastritsa at the sandy Mirtiotissa Beach - clothes optional. Those that wanted to work on their overall tans could bare all, while others kept their bits covered. Probably one of the most scenic beaches on the island and very peaceful. The clarity of the water was such that no snorkelling gear was need to see the colourful fish. 

View from The Pink Panther at Pelekas where we lunched

We managed to negotiate our way up the narrow streets of the old town of CorfuTown  to our accommodation at Locanderia, a small boutique hotel to find our room was on the top floor - up 45 steps.  Then headed to a local bar to enjoy an ouzo just before 7:00. We could hear the sound of brass instruments which seemed to be playing different tunes in different keys and then the church bells started. Then the timpani kicked in! We couldn't stop giggling at the cacophony.

As we still had a car rental we spent the next day exploring the north east of the island. Again the roads were narrow and winding. Adrian was missing his scooter. 

The Corfiots know how to grow bougainvillea and the scenes in the old town are full of colour and old world charm. The influence of the British, Venetians and the French is obvious in the grandeur of the buildings and the culture.

Road leading up to our accommodation

Colourful bougainvilleas are everywhere

Ouzo is cheaper than ginger beer or iced tea

 

Where the bloody hell are we?

What a wonderful stay we’ve had in beautiful Paleokastritsa on the west coast of Corfu. 

View from our window in evening

Wandered down to the port on our first night and stopped to enjoy an ouzo. Adrian said “just sip it”. Good advice! I noticed Adrian looking intently at me and I thought “how romantic” but then he promptly informed me that one of my eyes had changed colour to blue! Maybe just a reflection of the azure blue all round us… or maybe it was the ouzo.  

 On our first full day we ventured out in our little car to explore the beaches north of us. Suffice to say we were not overly prepared for the number of hairpin bends as the road led up and up and was very narrow.  We didn't get out of second gear. Certainly, there were times when we wished we had rented a Fiat Panda or a scooter. 

 

The beaches on Corfu are tucked away and not all easily accessible. At times we had no idea where we were. We saw three beaches that day  - resort beaches at Agios Georgios Pagon, Sidari and Roda. To be honest they were all pretty awful – sun lounges galore and the beaches uninspiring. 

 

Lunch at Nikos family Restaurant at Roda was a delight though. I had read about this little place back in Australia. It was not just the food we enjoyed but the warmth of the hospitality. The mother in the family, Lucy, proudly brought me her gluten free orange cake. I mentioned my recipe and she was keen to have it. She stopped to chat and was generally interested in our planned travels in her country. She brought us two limoncellos to try which she had made, followed by two other non-alcoholic drinks in shot glasses.  Then as we left, she presented us with a box of Greek cumquat sweets and hugged us both. Just genuine Greek friendliness. 

 Adventures on Monday took us to a beach much closer - Limni Beach - but not before the navigator had directed the very calm driver up the narrowest streets we have every encountered in a village to a dead end. But the master of the three point (sometimes five point) turn kept his cool. The navigator was slightly less calm. Despite the assistance of Google Maps,  we often said “Where the bloody hell are we?”

Walking through olive groves to Limni beach

Beaches on both sides

Then on to Giali Beach which was way too inaccessible for us. Apart from the slippery slope down the hill which threatened our physical safety, those coming back (all younger than us by a good 40 years) informed us that we would have to climb down a ladder using a rope to get to the beach.  And it was a long way down at the bottom of a cliff face. Discretion is the better part of valour. The sign says it all!

 

Went in search of the famous 14^th Century Paleokastritsa monastery which I was sure was up 11 km of hair-raising, winding roads, only to discover that it was a mere five minute drive from where we are staying. Still, we saw Angelokastro (fortified castle) atop the highest point. How did they every build there?

Angelokastro

Today was a no drive day. We walked to the monastery – beautifully calm, with lovely gardens  - and spent a pleasant afternoon on the beach snorkelling and watching some of the local teenagers clamber 15-20 metres up the rocks to jump into the sea. 

 

Tomorrow we head back across the island to Corfu town for a 4 night stay.

Shoulders must be covered 

At Paleokastritsa Monastery

 

Last dinner at Alipa by the port

 

 

The downside of Greece!

 

Stamina required

Theatre of Dionysus on the Acropolis

Two and a half busy days in Athens. Using the services of Athens Free Tours we had a three hour orientation of Central Athens on our first full day.  Our guide, Persephone, a delightful young graduate of medicine who is taking a gap year before embarking on her residency in regional Greece, was engaging and kept us all entertained. We saw Hadrian’s Arch and the ruins of Hadrian’s Library, the National Gardens and the Zappeion, a Neoclassical edifice tied to the history of the modern Olympic Games in 1896 and much more. Learnt lots about Greek history and mythology, most of which we’ve promptly forgotten.

But ...we did remember that the Greek guards with the funny shoes only get paid 8.50 euro per month. Lumbered with a weighty tunic and three layers of tights even in summer, little wonder they move so slowly at the changing of the guards. It is an honour to be selected for this role – have to be fairly tall, of good character and handsome (because they represent Greece). And did I mention their amazing ability to balance on one leg. Olympic gold medal performance! 

Impressive Greek guard

The Ancient Agora is a must see place. Until the 1930s, the whole area was covered in houses until archaeologists discovered what was underneath. Obviously they were all demolished. It is a massive area, with lots of ruins, although the Temple of Zeus is still standing. The Stoa has been recreated. It was where major decisions were made but currently it houses an amazing array of artefacts found on the site.  An interesting panel in the museum described Ostracism – a type of voting used though most of the 5th century BC– whereby each voter scratched or painted on a “potsherd” the name of the man he thought most undesirable. The “candidate” with the greatest number of votes against him was forced to leave Athens for ten years. I can think of some countries where that practice could be very handy!!

Recreated Stoa housing an impressive museum

Temple of Zeus in Ancient Agora

 We set the alarm so that we could get up to the Acropolis ticket gates as they opened.  Others had the same idea….and for good reason. For 40 glorious minutes the area around the awe inspiring Parthenon was the realm of a relatively small group of early risers. But then the hoardes arrived and they swarmed in by the hundreds or thousands. We also visited the Acropolis museum. So many historical artefacts have been stolen by the British, Lord Elgin being one of the major culprits. The exhibitions showcased lots of plaster copies, the originals being in the British Museum. 

 

We enjoyed some great food and wine and the Greek people are very friendly. Athens is crazy and chaotic but we loved it. 

 

Have just arrived this afternoon on Corfu, staying for 4 nights on the West coast at Paleokastritsa. It’s very picturesque. Here is our view. So beautifully serene.