Stamina required

Theatre of Dionysus on the Acropolis

Two and a half busy days in Athens. Using the services of Athens Free Tours we had a three hour orientation of Central Athens on our first full day.  Our guide, Persephone, a delightful young graduate of medicine who is taking a gap year before embarking on her residency in regional Greece, was engaging and kept us all entertained. We saw Hadrian’s Arch and the ruins of Hadrian’s Library, the National Gardens and the Zappeion, a Neoclassical edifice tied to the history of the modern Olympic Games in 1896 and much more. Learnt lots about Greek history and mythology, most of which we’ve promptly forgotten.

But ...we did remember that the Greek guards with the funny shoes only get paid 8.50 euro per month. Lumbered with a weighty tunic and three layers of tights even in summer, little wonder they move so slowly at the changing of the guards. It is an honour to be selected for this role – have to be fairly tall, of good character and handsome (because they represent Greece). And did I mention their amazing ability to balance on one leg. Olympic gold medal performance! 

Impressive Greek guard

The Ancient Agora is a must see place. Until the 1930s, the whole area was covered in houses until archaeologists discovered what was underneath. Obviously they were all demolished. It is a massive area, with lots of ruins, although the Temple of Zeus is still standing. The Stoa has been recreated. It was where major decisions were made but currently it houses an amazing array of artefacts found on the site.  An interesting panel in the museum described Ostracism – a type of voting used though most of the 5th century BC– whereby each voter scratched or painted on a “potsherd” the name of the man he thought most undesirable. The “candidate” with the greatest number of votes against him was forced to leave Athens for ten years. I can think of some countries where that practice could be very handy!!

Recreated Stoa housing an impressive museum

Temple of Zeus in Ancient Agora

 We set the alarm so that we could get up to the Acropolis ticket gates as they opened.  Others had the same idea….and for good reason. For 40 glorious minutes the area around the awe inspiring Parthenon was the realm of a relatively small group of early risers. But then the hoardes arrived and they swarmed in by the hundreds or thousands. We also visited the Acropolis museum. So many historical artefacts have been stolen by the British, Lord Elgin being one of the major culprits. The exhibitions showcased lots of plaster copies, the originals being in the British Museum. 

 

We enjoyed some great food and wine and the Greek people are very friendly. Athens is crazy and chaotic but we loved it. 

 

Have just arrived this afternoon on Corfu, staying for 4 nights on the West coast at Paleokastritsa. It’s very picturesque. Here is our view. So beautifully serene.